American Flyer S-gauge 915 vehicle unloader, with Lledo die-cast tanker — VIDEO

Description

2021Sep03 — I am TOP RATED on this marketplace with a current 12-month FEEDBACK rating of 100%, and I offer Combined Shipping. See my last 2 pics for my eBay Seller Level and eBay Feedback.
For shipping I have specified a handling time of 10 business days.
I have for sale an American Flyer model 915 vehicle unloader car, knuckle couplers, with a custom fitted Lledo die-cast gasoline tanker truck. This car is nearly pristine and operates perfectly. See below link to VIDEO of it operating at 15 volts.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/14AjDvZaHa6P0oWwdfWLZCSpI0o6L-8v6/view?usp=sharing
Details …
o The vehicle is a very nice Lledo die-cast Chevron / Standard Oil 6-wheel gasoline tanker. Scale is 1:64 or very close to it, though there is no scale listed on the vehicle or its box.
o This vehicle is so much nicer than the cheesy Manoil, Renwal, and Tootsietoy vehicles which are supplied with these unloading cars. In particular, the Manoil car is way out-of-scale, it’s more like 1:43 or 1:48.
o Added “rails” to sides of deck to keep vehicle centered, more or less. Used E6000 glue, easily removed.
o Added lead weight to rear of deck to offset the weight of the “rails”.
Used E6000 glue, easily removed.
o Wheels and axles are clean and defect free.
o Metal pickup wheels are coated steel. They are installed on the opposite side of the action shoe side. Let me know if you want them changed to the same side. No problem, I have the tooling to do that without damaging the fragile knuckle coupler truck.
o Knuckle couplers work fine.
o For these cars the return stroke of the deck tends to overrun the too small stop. Added a short post to end this nonsense. See pic #3.
o Applied silicone grease to the internal sliding parts
o Applied graphite to the solenoid armature. Never use oil or grease here.
o Removed the ramp portion of the vehicle holder to enable fitment of Lledo vehicle. See pic #8 for what was removed. The only purpose of this ramp is to make somewhat easier the loading of a vehicle.
o Replaced the deck attaching cotter pin with a piece of black soft steel wire. The cotter pin was ugly and stuck out too far, tending to snag a vehicle’s wheels. Should you ever need to remove the deck I’ve included a length of that wire. Don’t bother trying to unbend the ends of the wire, instead just cut it and then replace it.
o There was a small rust spot underneath the deck, visible only when the deck was half way rotated. Cleaned that and applied a patch of gray paint. I don’t understand how there was just one small rust spot in that location on an otherwise pristine car.
o This car could be prettied up with the addition of some decals to the sides. Like maybe Chevron?
Some configuration info … I have several model 715 versions of this car, link couplers, and I have them configured to unload to the inside of a track loop. This places the action shoe on the outside of a track loop. My track loop convention is base rail on the outside and power rail on the inside. I prefer to activate these cars via the variable voltage inside power rail and connect the action shoe to base through a push button. I’ve found that activation via a fixed high voltage (18 volts or more) is too violent and tends to sling the vehicle and rock the car. This is why the car’s metal pickup wheels are on the opposite side of the action shoe side and on the power rail. Of course to make this scheme work you need a train engine which has a neutral position. Can’t use later model AF engines with 2-step reverse units.